Tuesday, January 28, 2014

The Rohingya Letters

The Rohingya Letters



It took endless bribes, running from the police, scouts and inside help to get these letters. Letters that simply tell the shortened story of what it's like to be a Rohingya. Getting involved with them pretty much means that you're now one of them and it's a terrible thing, especially when you're in a country that has no issues with their genocide.


This is the Rohingya conflict on the Bangladeshi side.


After I walked into Nayapara camp an official asked me to sit down with him. I said no, ran and booked right. Following me were 3 Rohingya kids that taught themselves English. They learned from a book called "how to read american newspapers." They learned by candle light, hiding in their homes and silently pronouncing words to themselves in the night. They live their whole lives in hiding, pretending to be Bangladeshi citizens to move across the checkpoints that block the camp exits. That's how everyone lives, having to deny what they are.




(Zonayed teaching himself English by a book called “How to Read American Newspapers” in secret from the locals that patrol the camps)

They took me to Lada camp, which is the unrecognized home to approximately 15,000 in even worse conditions. The initial security in this camp is weak, but it's there and time is running out the moment you step in. Local Bangladeshi spies are wandering the camp and looking to report outsiders to the police for money. Everyone starts cheering in the streets because by showing up, they think you can change their future. A testament to how, little to nobody steps into their world. The first Rohingya woman I talked to was suffering from malaria and the conversation went like so,


"This woman has malaria." said, Arif (one of the Rohingya kids that translated).


"Is there medicine you can take?" said, me.


"No, I don't have to money to get it." said, the Rohingya woman.


"So will you die?"


"Yes."


"Do you have a family?"


"Yes."


"So, what are you going to do?"


"Nothing."


(Arif to the left translating, Untreated Malarial woman, Me realizing that she’s accepted death)


She walked away, and I was invited into a Rohingya man's home. The Rohingya began to barricade the door and it looked like they were there to listen. The man told me that they were there protect me in case officials came after me. He then explained that they're not allowed to talk about their suffering to anyone that comes by. If they do, officials will beat them, their families and maybe even more. I began to video the conversation and told him to please explain the suffering he's been through. He spoke and kept glancing at the door, the people fearing that something might happen to all of us. Of all the things he hated most, he hates how the local Bangladeshi rob the food and aid trucks that were meant for them. Without these basic supplies, it is nature that will slowly kill them off, which is exactly what the country wants. Right after that the Rohingya kids and I had to run. They weren't safe around me and I wasn't safe around them. That day it was just the police, but it would grow to where the whole country would work to separate us. Even the Rohingya themselves.  




(Frame 1: Caught candid, a local Bangladeshi spy ready to dial the police for my arrest.)
(Frame 2: Letting them express themselves. The man keeps checking the door for authorities.)
(Frame 3: Baricading the door and ready to aid in my safe passage. They know the risks.)
Exodus


The Rohingya are media famous for their boat journeys to other countries. It is not a small feat. It is an exodus across the Andaman sea, 2000 miles, packed into little wood boats, no compass and praying to wash up onto the shores of Malaysia. The only country that will accept the refugees if they can make it. If they hit neighboring Thailand they are detained and jailed. Their situation even worse than when they started. But the game has changed. The wood boats are gone and cargo ships from the edge of the country work in a massive smuggling rings and take an efficient 10 days to reach Malaysia. Once there they can look for work and begin a better life, even though they still won't have their citizenship. I asked the kids to take me to the heart of the smuggling.




(The wood fishing cargo boats that take them to Malaysia. Just waiting for the business.)


This is Dakinphara, the edge of the country and home to many Bangladeshi fishermen. The shore is stacked with huge wood cargo ships that of course seem like fishing boats, but actually used to smuggle Rohingya to Malaysia. The cost is about $2200 and made payable to Bangladeshi brokers that wander the refugee camps and arrange the smuggle. This is the route.


1.) Dakinphara, the starting point of the trip
2.) Ko tarutao, the island which they are held till remainder is paid
3.) The jungle route the Thai's use to smuggle
4.) Malaysia


I made the offer but the kids said they wouldn't do it. I couldn't understand. They're so young, so smart and with so much potential. Even without their citizenship, who knows what things they could accomplish if they were in a country that at least wouldn't oppress them or threaten to take their lives. Why wouldn't they go?


It wasn't because they didn't want to leave their families. It wasn't fear of death or the unknown. They didn't want to run. They wanted to fight for their people. They wanted to create their own documentary and show the real suffering and hardships of their people without anyone tainting or altering the story. They wanted the opportunity to do something for themselves and their people. They wanted a computer, a camera, the internet and a way to secretly operate it from the camp. I said yes.


The Internet Age


Checklist


1 Samsung laptop dual processor
1 Nikon digital camera (video function included)
1 android smartphone to stream internet into laptop
1 car battery to power laptop
1 battery converter to power laptop
1 private room month to month rent
$400 of random bribe money


I couldn't go to the refugee camps anymore. Too many people and officials were looking for me, so they came up to Cox's Bazaar to shop for all the pieces. They stayed a few nights and I taught them how to use every basic function of the laptop, camera and smartphone. They learned well and were ready to report live on the Rohingya issues. They were going to set up internet in the camps for the first time in their people's history. They were going to fight back.




(Teaching my first computer class and informing them of the internet)

During this time Bangladesh was going through massive and violent political strikes known as "hartal". It's typical for the entire bus system to shut down for who knows how long and make it impossible to travel anywhere in the country. The streets flood with thousands of people and violence from street brawls to molotov cocktails and death is all common. During these times, there's little I can do but to stay inside.


The day before another hartal strike, I told them to take my iPod touch and record everything they could in the camps. I also told them to get as many people as they could to write letters about their lives and who they are and to take pictures of the people holding their letters. They agreed and would even translate the letters.


When they weren't documenting, they and the rest of the people were working in the brickfields. 12 hours of brickmaking for 100 taka ($1.25 USD). It's important for the Rohingya to have large families so they can work and make enough to at least feed themselves. Small families must send their 4-10 year old to work or else it means starvation. It is slave labor by all means.




(The Rohingya brick fields. Torturingly hot, long labor for $1.25 per 12 hours. Just one of three brothers working so a single brother can go to school)




(Becoming a man, a 5 year old kid works as a fisherman to help feed his family since it’s just him and his mom.)


5 days of Hartal passed and we met again in Teknaf and they had the letters. They had a lot of letters.



(Just a few of hundreds that came forward to share their story.)


   The people were scared to write the letters and have their pictures taken. They thought they were going to be sold or something bad would happen to them. The kids eased their minds by telling them that it was me who was behind the operation. Remembering me from the first time I came by, they agreed even if it meant beatings. They were proud to get to tell their story. However, spies saw the kids taking pictures of people holding up letters and made them pay a bribe or beat them and their families. I had to pay the bribe to protect the 3 kids, but even in the face of threats they weren't scared of anything. It was easy to see that they gained strength in being able to do something for their people.


We immediately mailed the letters off to the states, and we were going to celebrate over lunch. Suddenly, they told me that a "black sheep" Rohingya just spotted us walking around together and that I could not stay in Teknaf. They feared that he would find out where I was staying since there were limited hotels and bring the authorities after me. All so he could get a little bit of money. I could never come back to them. From now on they would have to travel 3 hours up to coast to meet me.


Days later, I got my first email from them. It was amazing. It meant that the laptop setup was successful. They hid everything in bags of trash and snuck it into the camp without anyone's knowledge. They managed to keep everything smooth and silent for the time being.


Now, that the laptop was set up my trip in Bangladesh was over. We would now work together to get the real unbiased and unaltered story of the Rohingya into the global atmosphere. There was little to say except to tell them to be as safe as possible. One of the kid's Zonayed told me he loved me. He is the last living member of his family and feels like he's never been loved, but the thing that brings him down most is that he feels like he's been forsaken by God because he was born into the Rohingya life. I told him I loved him back. He needed to know like the Rohingya needed to know, their story no matter how trampled and buried will never be forgotten.


A few weeks later this email came through. Welcome to the first Rohingya email reporting live on the murder and atrocities committed by the Bangladeshi people

















A REFUGEE HAS BEEN KILLED BBANGLADESHI PEOPLES.   




The victim has been identified as a refugee,


Name: Joynal uddin. Age (21). Father’s name: zahid alam.


Mother’s name: Mustafa khatun. MRC# 44869. Shed no 649/6.


When he was returning home after earning money at that moment some Bangladeshi peoples attacked him and told him that where Was he coming from?


He replied them he was coming from Teknaf.


Bangladeshi peoples asked him why he went there?  


And he replied them to work.


Bangladeshi peoples again asked him how money did he have?  


No money he added.


Bangladeshi peoples checked his body and found some money In his pocket.They wanted to snatch the money but the refugee disagreed to give them the money and they stabbed and
cut his neck.       


Therefore, we hope and wish that the (UN) would kindly justify
About refugee as early as possible.

Karen: Ba So Daka Me A Dithako




Ba so daka me a dithako

“Mosquitos are my friend” is the name of a deep Karen country song sung by our commander La Shee at 4am to wake us up. It was really annoying, kinda funny and unfightable. At 4 am in deep Karen Jungle the sun still won’t come up for hours. It is the middle of dew reproduction so all your clothes are damp, the temperature has dropped in half and it's pitch black crawling with nocturnals. It’s a mildly rude awakening for the first week. It’s tedious to remember little things like carrying a flashlight everywhere because bullet ants and spiders might creepin up your junk while you take a morning leak.



(Meet La Shee, our commander. He likes to sing play on his phone, punch banana trees in half and be generally hilarious at all times.)

In total there area 7 brigades within the KNDO (Karen National Defense Organization). We man the KNDO 6th brigade. Together, 13 of us patrolled the barracks of Golamie.

Commanders

La Shee
Lah May Say
Neh Oh Tu
Sa Du Du

Soldiers

Tha Thoo
Po Hwa
Li Go
Pu Koh
No Duh
Gu Cho
Ma Tu
Ah Pree Tu
Me (Yoo Ha)


Waking up is a process. We all come from different parts of the area and come toward the campfire by the kitchen. There’s nothing to sip on or eat on so we all got a cigarette in our mouths and both hands by the fire. After the rice is boiled by campfire they mutter "Yooha, ohmi." which means Yooha, eat rice.  We'd each eat a couple pieces of pumpkin on top a small bed of rice mixed in with chillies and msg. I couldn’t handle the rice because it was too hot to touch and couldn’t eat the rice because the chillies were too spicy. They loved this about me till the very last day I left them. That’s how we all got our morning groove on. After you're done, you wash the dish and hang it up. I’d walk always coughing up chilies into faded light of the campfire and I’d hear them laughing from far away. Success.


 

(breakfast of lue kay doh (pumpkin stems) awesome…

After breakfast I'd go off onto the flat dust and do my push ups and 2000 jumprope reps. I had to get as strong as fast as possible. In Karen society, all types of strength are a virtue. It was important to pursue strength especially if you knew you didn’t have it. This is one of the pillars that generates respect in their world.  After a morning sweat I'd go upstairs to prep my AR-15. It breaks down into 4 mechanical steps that I can reassemble with ease now. La Shee accepted no failure in learning this task perfectly. If I were to fight in battle it’d be done in legit KNDO fashion. My gun reads "colt, property of the us gov, serial number 847319". My gun probably came from vietnam, was sold into the Thai black markets and then rebought by the Karen. There’s a lot of money to be made and the Thai’s exploit the price. $1800 for a 30 year old AR-15 and bullets a dollar each. That is the economics of Karen weaponry, and the extremely weary journey of this gun. The Karen genocide has just entered it’s 63rd year making it the longest civil war in history. It has a darker meaning for them. For them it means one full generation has passed.




(“My AR-15 pronounced AYARA in Karen)



I spend the mornings thinking about Karen life until they scream "yooha! teh peh pobula town!" which means, yooha let's go pick peanuts in pobula town. It’s our way of making money. I hurry but the local dogs ate my shoelaces so it takes me a while to catch up. The day they found out a dog ate my shoelaces was like a camp holiday because earlier during the week a dog ate all my eggs as well. Dogs ate all my shit and I’d always find out last. It was the running joke for weeks and they told everyone about it and I’d joke back saying “tomorrow a dog is gonna eat my shirt!” Once villagers saw the soldiers and I laughing together and having our little moments, there was a sense of peace that I was gonna fit in and maybe stay for awhile. That I was actually thinking of a way to change their landscape, but really it didn’t matter if I could solve anything right now. It was enough to be a part of thier moment.






(O cho. Shot in the leg years ago is now the town doctor. He says "tabloo" every time I help him pick peanuts without pay. Oh and tabloo means thank you)

I had no Karen contacts prior coming to Thailand and my first one ended up being General Nerdah Mya. The general of the KNDO (The Karen National Defense Organization). I discovered him through a hostel in Mae Sot, Thailand and he agreed to meet with me in person. Our first meeting we discussed the poor leadership within the KNU (Karen National Union) and how the 2013 ceasefire served as a way for Burma to re strategize it’s takeover of the Karen people. We clicked on all the Karen issues and he decided to take me to the Karen side of things. He said bring 3 things "a phone, a sleeping bag, a mosquito net". Nothing else was necessary.


The next day we spend 5 hours crossing into a strategic border location known as Oo Kray Kee. It is the entry point of Kawthoolei (the name of Karen State), Headquarters to the KNDO and streams into the other brigades of the KNLA (Karen National Liberation Army). Here he'd drop me off and requested that I build a restaurant with a concrete eating patio. He introduced me to the town pastor, left and said he'd be back after 3 weeks.

It seemed very odd. I thought people that had suffered, seen hard times would be happy to see someone that wanted to help out. They didn't give a shit. They could care less that I was there. What was I gonna do for them? I was just another little guest foreigner the general brought to camp that they had to respect in his sights. But that wasn't me.

(day after day of busting ass means the same thing in any culture)

I woke up and got to work. I worked harder than anyone in that village that I could see and did the labor without a sign of weariness. It was hard but I didn't want to be weak. Everyone laughed at everything I did and when I’d try to talk to them they’d just walk away, but that's a good sign. It means they’re amused, confused, starting to wonder who you are. That's what people do when they can't understand. So now it is up to you to fill the void. That is what I’ve trained my whole life to do.

By the third week they called me by my name "Yooha" and wanted to learn everything about Korea. They wanted to learn all about K-pop. I just wasn’t that guy that listened to K-pop and danced around like a little top. During the nights I would teach them to sing really random korean songs Iearned growing up and more proper american songs. In exchange I'd learn traditional Karen songs. They’re all stylistically deep country songs that are lyrically about all the things they do in their daily life like trying to love a girl, being too drunk or not having enough money. They hated most of my music but their favorite song was "mo money mo problems" by Notorious BIG. Oh and out of all the American artists they had on their phones, can you guess who? Taylor Swift.


(Nerdah returned to exactly what he wanted. I was becoming on of the people and we were all doin it to mo money mo problems. Thanks Notorious)

Nerdah returned with another foreigner 3 weeks later. A respectable Dutch lawyer that the people had seen many times before, but they never approached him. I thought it was a bit odd but realized it’s because he never went out of his way to get to know them. He only dealt with Nerdah, and had little interest in making any sincere eye contact with the people. I don’t think that it’s because he didn’t care, he just didn’t know how to walk in their shoes.

The lawyer situation showed that Nerdah is doing the right thing for his people but it’s just not happening quickly and powerfully enough. The Karen need big international allies to combat the power that Burma is drawing in from the west. This is their only hope, and it always looks bleak because what can the Karen offer. Freedom really isn’t free and this is the life they’re always going to have unless they draw in powerful nations. The Burmese hope to defeat the Karen by means of other global support. The Karen are resilient and hope someone will do the right thing. In the meantime, you will never see a pride like theirs to keep their guns and be prolific with them. A soldier is the best thing in Karen society when the world in general is made of horror.

That night I told Nerdah I accomplished everything I needed to do here and that I wanted to join the KNDO. He agreed but said it would take a month. He summoned LaShee and that is how he trained me. The next morning we would begin our walk to Golamie, the place where I was born.

We walked for 3 hours without a watch. It was the best time of my life. The soldiers looked so fucking cool. Professional, ready to execute, disciplined and dedicated. Everything I wanted to be for the Karen people. A strong leader.

It was rough in the beginning getting to know each other. The langage barrier was huge and my indentity ambiguous, so one saturday we took a 40 minute walk through the jungle and cornfields to Ga-nae-gla. I got everyone drunk and happily smoked but it didn't get their respect at all. The thing they loved is that I tried to hit on the prettiest girl in town. Her name was Mu-eh-klee. I found out the next morning she was 14 and it became a running joke that I loved her and would kill anyone else who did. Really immature stuff but this is how we started bonding and joking with each other. One of them even went through my iPod pictures and found a picture of a friend. She became our Brigade’s pin up girl.

I had fight training with Neh Oh Tu one night and he beat the shit out of me. He told me to kick him, slap each ear as hard as possible and then hit him in the stomach twice. By the end of it blood was coming out of our ears and we were fighting by this fire in the night while everyone else was sleeping. It was great. He was strong, but always concerned. He made a great soldier but in the modern world he would have made a great athlete. I’m sure of it.



(Neh Oh Tu is like Psyduck but is going to kill you with a gun, not a leek)

There was a night another commander, Sa du du and I were laying by the fire in hammocks and he could sort of speak english. I asked him how he felt about his wife being in America and he said he'd rather be here as a soldier. He misses his life but, he likes being a soldier. He holds his hands to frame the nature around him. This is freedom to him. He asked me if this was freedom for me? I didn’t know what to say so I asked him if his friends had died in war. He said many, and then very sadly and slowly said, "Yooha, we slept together, we ate rice together..." and then it got silent. These were intimate things for the Karen people when life was such. It literally meant the world to eat rice with your friends and sing in a field of peanuts and joke about someone’s lame new shirt. It meant the world to be in our hammocks together sitting by a fire we made.

During our final days, we all played this huge pseudo game called “balanawa”. Basically if you did or said something stupid you’d fake punch this person and if you flinched everyone would bombard you until you had to run away. I was the worst.



(Car balanawa sucks cause if you get swarmed you might fly out of the truck)

The final day was sad. It felt more like the end of a time than the end of a visit. Sa du du, who would barely look at me in the beginning, who came to share rice, build fires and play games with me stood beside me when we all celebrated christmas together. We celebrated in a barracks lit by tens of tiny candles and sang songs. It didn’t even matter if it was in season. At the end of our ceremony, I told the Karen people “thank you, you have all changed my life. I will never forget you.”

In this moment. General Nerdah Mya thanked me and told me “my soldiers love being around you. you can never leave. you are one of us now.”



(You are one of us now)


Nerdah watched me grow with his people and on the final day sat me down and told me,

“you must help me help my people
you’re business is just a bussiness
this is the lives of 50 million people.
"you are now the American representative of the KNDO in America
"help us fight Aaron."

I’ve never been asked desperately by a man to help him save his country. It was an incredible demand and I didn’t think I’d ever get asked again. I said yes for many reasons.

A lot happened in the end, but the only real important thing was after our final meal in Thailand  when Nerdah said

"See you later. We must keep moving.”

It was time for a young man who was turning into an older man to keep carrying the weight of his people. It was time for him to put on the same heavy coat and wrap himself in fuzz of his scarf and walk out the door. He’s still wearing boots that seem like they just won’t come off. He’s fighting for millions of things even though a small part of the world thinks he’s fighting for one thing, his people. He’s giving his all in general. He’s just the kind of guy that gives everything and leaves it all out there on the floor. Genocide is cresting once again and ready to break upon his people in 2015. The soldiers are ready and now I’m part of the struggle. Their pressure fell on me, and I’m glad. We will never surrender.

I hope one day this kid and I will be older and the uniform will be out of style.





“The Karen struggle is an armed struggle.”-General Nerdah Mya